Jeep Lift Kits & Suspension

A Jeep lift is not a box of parts. It is a change to the geometry of the steering and suspension, and everything the factory set up around that geometry has to be brought back into line afterward. Do that and you get a Jeep that drives better than stock. Skip it and you get wandering, tire wear, and eventually death wobble.

That is the whole difference between shops, and it is why we quote the job rather than the kit.

Leveling or 1–2 inch. Clears a modest tire, keeps the ride close to factory, keeps the driveline angles happy. The cheapest honest answer for a daily driver that just needs to sit right.

2.5–3.5 inch. The sweet spot for most Wranglers and Gladiators. Room for 35s, still civil on the highway. This is where a proper kit — with the correct track bar, control arms and brake line length — earns its money.

4 inch and up. Now you are into driveshafts, steering correction, control arm geometry and, realistically, gears. Absolutely doable, but it is a build and we will quote it as one.

Long arm. For a Jeep that actually goes off road hard. Changes how the suspension articulates rather than just how tall it sits.

Not sure which one you want? Tell us how you actually use the Jeep — daily commute, trail weekends, towing, or all three. That answer picks the kit, not the other way round.

Depending on height, some or all of this comes with the job. We will tell you which before you commit:

• Adjustable track bar — to recentre the axle under the Jeep
• Control arms — to reset caster and pinion angle
• Extended brake lines — because stock lines were not cut for that travel
• Sway bar links and disconnects
• Bump stops — so a big tire does not meet sheet metal
• Driveshaft or SYE at taller heights
• Steering correction — drag link and tie rod geometry
• Full alignment — every time, no exceptions
• Gears — once the tires get big enough to matter

We are an authorized dealer for the lines we stock, and we can source most of what we don't:

Suspension and shocks — Fox, King, ICON Vehicle Dynamics, BDS, Rough Country, Zone, Eibach, ReadyLift, Elka and Westcott Designs.

Wheels — Method, KMC, Fuel, Black Rhino, American Racing, Hostile, KG1 and American Force.

Tires — BFGoodrich, Nitto, Toyo, Falken, Goodyear, Fury, Yokohama, Continental and Pirelli.

Recovery and lighting — Warn winches, Baja Designs and Rigid.

We will tell you honestly where the money makes a difference and where it doesn't. A King or Fox shock is a real upgrade you feel every day. A wheel is mostly a look. Spend accordingly.

Bring it in. A lot of what we do is finishing work somebody else started — correcting geometry, adding the parts the original kit needed, chasing a wander or a shimmy, and aligning it properly for the first time.

No lecture about where you had it done. We will tell you what it needs and what it costs.