Bumpers, Winches & Armor

Armor is the part of a Jeep build where doing it badly is genuinely dangerous. A winch is a machine that stores enormous energy in a line. A recovery point that pulls out of a bumper becomes a projectile. This is not the place to save two hundred dollars.

We install it so it holds, wire it so it does not cook a harness, and tell you what the added weight is going to do to the front end.

We fit Warn winches — the name that earned it. What matters as much as the winch:

• A bumper actually rated to carry it, mounted to the frame the way the manufacturer intended
• Real recovery points, not a tie-down loop somebody hoped would hold
• Power wiring sized for the load and fused — a winch under strain pulls current most people badly underestimate
• Battery capacity, and a straight answer if yours is not up to it
• Controls routed where you can reach them without standing in front of the line

We will also show you how to use it and where not to stand. That part is free.

Front and rear bumpers — stubby, mid-width or full, with or without a hoop. The choice changes approach angle and how much weight sits ahead of the axle.

Rock rails and sliders — the single best value on the list. Rocker panel damage is expensive and permanent.

Skid plates — oil pan, transfer case, fuel tank. Cheap insurance against an expensive day.

Fender flares — for coverage over bigger tires, and to keep you legal and courteous on the highway.

Tire carriers — once the spare outgrows the factory mount.

Ranch Hand and other heavy-duty options for a Gladiator doing truck work.

Baja Designs and Rigid — light bars, pods, ditch lights and rock lights, on a proper relayed and fused circuit with a switch that belongs in the dash, not zip-tied to the A-pillar.

Auxiliary lighting is aimed and covered so it is legal on the road. We will tell you which lights have to stay off on the highway, because a ticket is not the souvenir you wanted.