Wired with a relay and a fuse, aimed so it stays legal on the road
Auxiliary lighting is the easiest thing on a truck to do badly. Anyone can zip-tie a light bar to a bumper and run the wire through a door seal. What separates a light that works in five years from one that fogs over in a Texas summer is the housing, the beam pattern, and the wiring behind it. We install Baja Designs and Rigid on trucks, SUVs, Jeeps, and cars.
Beam pattern matters more than raw lumens. A spot throws a narrow column far down a county road. A flood or wide cornering pattern fills in ditches and fence lines right next to you. A driving or combo pattern splits the difference and is what most people actually want on the bumper. Buy the wrong pattern and you get a wall of light with a dark hole exactly where the deer is standing.
We do the whole job: mounts, relay or solid-state harness, fusing at the battery, weather-sealed connectors, switch panel or factory upfitter integration, and aiming. Everything is quoted in writing before anything is ordered, labor at our $150/hr door rate. We are veteran-owned and open Monday through Saturday, so you are not giving up a workday to get lights on your truck.
20", 30", 40", and 50" bars on bumper, roof, and windshield mounts. Roof mounts look right and light far, but they also throw glare off your own hood if the beam pattern is wrong.
Baja Designs Squadron and S2, Rigid D-Series, mounted in the bumper or on the A-pillar hood hinge. Ditch lights are the most useful pair of lights most trucks ever get on a dark rural road.
Rock lights under the frame for seeing tire placement and crawling in the dark. Amber or red rear chase lights so the truck behind you knows where you are in a dust cloud.
Amber cuts through dust, fog, and the caliche haze off a lead vehicle far better than white. White reads sharper on clear pavement. Selective yellow lenses or an amber pod pair are worth having on a work truck.
Every light gets its own fused feed from the battery through a relay or solid-state harness, sealed connectors, and a proper grommet through the firewall. Nothing gets spliced into a factory circuit or a trailer harness.
Super Duty and Ram upfitter switches wired to the factory pass-through where the truck has them. sPOD, Switch-Pros, and Baja Designs panels where it does not, mounted where you can reach them.
Cheap light bars die from water, not from the LEDs. The diodes rarely fail first. The housing does. A cheap bar breathes through a bad gasket, pulls in humid air on a hot afternoon, condenses overnight, and by spring you have standing water inside the lens and green corrosion on the board. Baja Designs and Rigid pressure-equalize with a vented membrane and use potted drivers, which is most of what you are paying for.
Tapping a factory circuit instead of running a relay. Splicing lights into a headlight wire, a fuse tap, or the trailer plug puts current through a circuit that was never designed for it. You get blown fuses, flicker, dash warnings, and on newer trucks with smart junction boxes, real module faults. Every light we install gets a fused feed straight off the battery and a relay or solid-state controller triggered by a low-current switch wire.
Lights aimed at eye level, and the ticket that follows. Texas treats auxiliary lamps as auxiliary. Off-road bars and pods are meant to be covered or off on public roads, and running an uncovered 40-inch bar down 377 at night is both illegal and a good way to blind an oncoming driver. We aim everything on a level floor, set a proper cutoff, wire a clean off state, and supply covers for anything that needs one.
Halogen habits applied to LED hardware. Old halogen lights ran hot and shed snow and mud on their own. LEDs run a cool lens, so they cake over with mud and ice and stay caked. They also draw far less current, which means people assume the wiring does not matter and run 18 gauge to a 180-watt bar. Gauge the wire to the load and the run length, not to what is in the drawer.
Amber for dust, fog, and following another vehicle down a dirt road. It scatters less off airborne particles, so you see through it instead of staring at a lit wall. White gives better contrast and color on clean pavement. A lot of North Texas trucks end up with white forward lighting and an amber pair or amber lenses for the days the pasture is dry.
Not uncovered and lit. Auxiliary off-road lamps are legal to have and legal to use off the public roadway, but they need to be covered or switched off in traffic. We wire them so they are easy to shut off, keep them out of the way of your headlight aim, and supply covers. What gets people cited is a lit bar in oncoming traffic, not the bar itself.
Spot is a tight column for distance, useful above 40 mph on open road. Flood or wide cornering is short and broad, for ditches, trail edges, and reversing. Driving or combo blends the two and is the right default for a bumper pair. Most builds we do run a combo pattern up front, wide pods for ditch lights, and flood at the rear.
A modern LED setup draws far less than the old halogen equivalent, so a healthy battery and alternator usually handle it. Trouble shows up when lights stack with a winch, a compressor, an inverter, and a fridge, or when a light stays powered with the key off. We calculate total draw, fuse it correctly, and tell you if you need a bigger battery.
Our shop is at 4020 Trey Ln, Unit B in Argyle, and we work on trucks from Argyle, Flower Mound, Bartonville, Copper Canyon, Justin and Northlake, plus Denton, Roanoke, Trophy Club, Keller, Haslet, Highland Village and the wider Metroplex within about fifty miles.
Open Monday to Saturday, 7:00 AM to 6:00 PM. Closed Sunday. (940) 240-1958
More of what we do: Running Boards & Steps · Tonneau Covers · Brakes · Diesel Service · Lift Kits · Shocks & Suspension · Wheels & Tires · Vehicle Wraps · Vehicles we service · Fleet service
Authorized dealer for all 42 brands below.
Authorized dealer for every brand listed above. Running something that is not on this list? We can source and install almost any major aftermarket suspension, wheel, tire or accessory line — give us a call and we will price it out.